Rosie the Snuggle Bear: Free crochet pattern

Rosie is a palm-sized stuffed bear worked in continuous single-crochet rounds from the top down. Her plump head, rounded body, and chunky limbs are all shaped with simple increases and decreases, making her approachable for anyone who has completed their first amigurumi project. She finishes at about 20 cm seated — just the right size to tuck into a gift box or nestle on a nursery shelf.

The colour palette is pure WithMe: a dusty-rose body with a warm-cream muzzle, cream inner-ear patches, and a tiny sage-green bow tied at her neck for a finishing flourish. Every piece is worked in DK yarn on a small hook to produce a firm fabric that holds its shape and keeps the stuffing safely inside.

Rosie makes a beautiful baby shower gift, a first stuffed animal, or a keepsake for any age. Safety eyes can be swapped for embroidered eyes on toys intended for children under three. She is a lovely weekend project that feels genuinely special when it is done.

What you need

• Color A — DK weight yarn, dusty rose: approx. 180 yds / 165 m (e.g. Paintbox Simply DK, 'Dusty Rose')
• Color B — DK weight yarn, warm cream: approx. 45 yds / 41 m (e.g. Paintbox Simply DK, 'Champagne White')
• Color C — DK weight yarn, sage green: approx. 10 yds / 9 m for bow only (e.g. Paintbox Simply DK, 'Pistachio Green')
• 3.5 mm (US E/4) crochet hook
• One pair 12 mm safety eyes (or embroider eyes in dark yarn for children under 3)
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing, approx. 50 g / 1.75 oz
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker
• Scissors

Gauge

18 sc and 20 rounds = 4 in / 10 cm in continuous single-crochet rounds. Tighter is perfectly fine; gauge is not critical for toys — just ensure there are no gaps in the fabric.

Abbreviations

• sc — single crochet
• inc — 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec — sc 2 together (invisible decrease)
• ch — chain
• tr — treble crochet
• dc — double crochet

Pattern notes

• Work in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise; use a stitch marker to track the start of each round.
• Do not join rounds with a slip stitch; move the marker up each round.
• Leave a 30 cm tail when fastening off each piece for sewing.
• Make 2 of Outer Ears, Inner Ear Patches, Arms, and Legs.
• Stuff pieces firmly as you go; lightly stuff arms and legs.

1. Head

The head is worked from the top down in Color A, expanded to a full sphere, then decreased and stuffed before closing. Insert safety eyes before the final decrease rounds.

• Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
• Round 2: inc × 6 [12]
• Round 3: (sc, inc) × 6 [18]
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 [30]
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) × 6 [36]
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) × 6 [42]
• Rounds 8–12: sc in each stitch around [42]
• Round 13: sc in each stitch around [42] — After this round, insert safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 9 stitches apart, centred on the face.
• Round 14: (5 sc, dec) × 6 [36]
• Round 15: (4 sc, dec) × 6 [30]
• Round 16: (3 sc, dec) × 6 [24]
• Round 17: (2 sc, dec) × 6 [18] — Firmly stuff the head now before continuing.
• Round 18: (sc, dec) × 6 [12]
• Round 19: dec × 6 [6]

1. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the front loop of all 6 remaining stitches, pull tight to close, and weave in the end securely.

2. Body

The body is slightly smaller than the head and is shaped with the same expand-and-decrease method in Color A. Leave the top open until you have sewn on the head.

• Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
• Round 2: inc × 6 [12]
• Round 3: (sc, inc) × 6 [18]
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 [30]
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) × 6 [36]
• Rounds 7–14: sc in each stitch around [36]
• Round 15: (4 sc, dec) × 6 [30]
• Round 16: (3 sc, dec) × 6 [24]
• Round 17: (2 sc, dec) × 6 [18] — Firmly stuff the body now before continuing.
• Round 18: (sc, dec) × 6 [12]
• Round 19: dec × 6 [6]

1. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close, and weave in end.

3. Outer Ears

Make two in Color A. These are small flat cups that will be pinched at the base before sewing to the head.

• Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
• Round 2: inc × 6 [12]
• Round 3: (sc, inc) × 6 [18]
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]
• Round 5: sc in each stitch around [24]

1. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff. Pinch the base of each ear flat to form a gentle cup shape; the tail will hold the pinch while sewing.

4. Inner Ear Patches

Make two in Color B. These small flat circles are sewn onto the front of each outer ear to create the cream inner-ear detail.

• Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
• Round 2: inc × 6 [12]
• Round 3: (sc, inc) × 6 [18]

1. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Keep flat. Align centrally on the front of each outer ear and sew down with the tail, then weave in end.

5. Muzzle

The muzzle is a flat cream disc in Color B that anchors the face detail. Embroider a small Y-shaped nose in Color A before sewing it on.

• Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
• Round 2: inc × 6 [12]
• Round 3: (sc, inc) × 6 [18]
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 [24]

1. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Keep flat. Using Color A and the yarn needle, embroider a small upside-down Y for the nose and mouth at the centre of the disc.

6. Arms and Legs

Make two arms and two legs in Color A. Arms are slim cylinders; legs have a slightly wider rounded base. Stuff lightly as you go.

• Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6] — Arms: work rounds 1–11 twice. Legs: work rounds 1–12 twice.
• Round 2: inc × 6 [12]
• Rounds 3–10: sc in each stitch around [12] — Arms only: work rounds 3–10 as plain sc rounds, then skip to round 11. Legs only: after round 2, complete rounds 3–6 below before continuing with sc rounds.
• Round 11: dec × 6 [6] — Arms only: dec round to close top. Legs: skip this; legs follow their own round 11 below.

1. ARM FINISH: Fasten off after round 11, leaving a long tail. Lightly stuff. Do not close the opening fully — it will be sewn flat to the body side.
2. LEG ROUNDS (begin at round 3 after the arm round-2 count of 12): Round 3 — [sc 1, inc] × 6 = 18. Rounds 4–5 — sc 18. Round 6 — [sc 1, dec] × 6 = 12. Rounds 7–12 — sc 12. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Lightly stuff. Leave the top open to sew flat to the body base.

7. Sage-Green Bow

A simple chain bow in Color C gives Rosie her finishing flourish at the neck.

• Row 1: 40 ch [40]

1. Fasten off. Fold the chain into a bow shape and tie a short separate length of Color C tightly around the centre. Trim ends neatly.

8. WithMe signature heart

The same little heart sits on every WithMe original — our way of signing it with love. Use any contrast colour from the project.

• Round 1: 3 tr, 3 dc, ch, tr, ch, 3 dc, 3 tr in a magic ring [15] — Ch 3 first (it doesn't count as a stitch). After the last stitch, ch 3 and sl st into the ring, then pull the ring tight — the dip at the top of the heart forms as you pull.

1. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing the heart in place.

Finishing

1. Sew the muzzle disc onto the lower-centre face, between the safety eyes and the magic-ring top of the head, using the tail and yarn needle. Ladder-stitch all the way around for a clean edge.
2. Pin each outer ear (with inner patch already attached) to the top sides of the head at rounds 2–5, with the pinched base pointing downward. Sew firmly through all layers.
3. Attach the head to the body by aligning the magic-ring tops and ladder-stitching around the full circumference, pulling firmly and adding extra stuffing through the gap before closing.
4. Sew each arm flat against the upper body sides at roughly rounds 3–5, with the opening aligned against the body. Stitch all the way around the opening edge.
5. Sew each leg flat against the base of the body, opening facing up, one on each side of the centre seam.
6. Tie the sage-green bow at Rosie's neck and tack it in place with a few invisible stitches in Color C.
7. Sew the WithMe signature heart flat onto Rosie's left chest, centred between her neck bow and the midpoint of her body.
8. Weave in all remaining ends. Give Rosie a gentle squeeze to even out the stuffing.

Tips from the WithMe studio

• Use a stitch marker in a contrasting colour and move it up every round — it is easy to lose count on the decrease rounds.
• For a firmer bear, go down to a 3.0 mm hook; for a slightly squishier feel, use 3.75 mm.
• Invisible decreases (insert hook under front loop only of first stitch, then front loop of second) give the smoothest finish on the decrease rounds.
• Stuff gradually as the piece closes rather than all at once — it is much easier to get an even shape.
• If making Rosie for a baby under three, use black yarn French knots instead of safety eyes.

Share your make with #withmelove — we would love to see it.